The shortage of black truffles in the misty hills of Piedmont in northern Italy is clearly evident. Giovanni Esposito, 69, while searching with his dog Attila, said, "The moon is full, and yet I have only found two small pieces." He added, "We needed rain in July or August" and mentioned his usual hunting spots, which he has even kept secret from his wife.
Economic and Cultural Impacts
Truffle hunting is an important tradition in Italy's villages and is often considered a non-financial source of income for local people. The price of white truffles can reach several thousand euros per kilogram, while premium black truffles are usually sold for hundreds of euros per kilogram. Most black truffles are now sourced from cultivated farms or agricultural lands, where tree roots are immersed in truffle liquid to encourage mushroom growth.
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Concerns About the Future of Truffles
Marco Buidu, 49, a truffle trader and restaurant owner near Alessandria, is also worried about the production situation. He said, "We started the season terribly; our production has decreased by 50 percent." He continued, "This year, the truffles are smaller and more aromatic, but if this drought continues, their numbers in our area will become less and less."
A truffle hunter who works for Buidu and wished to remain anonymous also stated that the production of white truffles has unusually decreased this year; as unsuitable heat has caused the edges of streams and moist valleys to dry up. In contrast, a hunter in Umbria in central Italy said that the cooler and more enclosed mountain valleys, which have retained moisture in the summer, have performed better. He added, "There is exceptional aroma and very firm texture that keeps market prices high."
Italy has also faced increasing competition from Spain in recent years, where farmers have planted vast truffle farms and reduced costs. In 2025, the Italian government attempted to reform this sector by encouraging more production on farms, but this bill faced strong opposition from traditional truffle hunters and was halted in the Italian Senate. Fabio Chertano, president of the Federation of Italian Truffle Hunters Associations, said, "We need policies that change calendars and manage land so that water moving with plants is not blocked."
Esposito in Piedmont hopes that this tradition continues. He said, "When you smell the aroma of truffles and the dog starts digging in the ground and stands there, not giving up... it excites you."
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